March 22th, 2023 |  8 min read

There is more than one way to reach Machu Picchu, the ancient citadel of the Incas that crowns the Andes of Peru. 

But few are as adventurous and rewarding as the Salkantay Trek, a route that takes you through diverse and stunning landscapes. From glaciers to jungles, the route follows an ancient Inca path that crosses the Salkantay Pass at 4,600 meters above sea level. 

Along the way, you witness the beauty and diversity of Peru’s nature and culture, as well as some lesser-known Inca ruins.

The Salkantay Trek has a long history that dates back to the reign of the Incas. It was one of the routes that connected Cusco, the capital of the Empire, with Machu Picchu, the sacred city of the Incas. The trek was used by religious leaders who sought to reach higher altitudes where they could communicate with their gods. 

The name Salkantay comes from a Quechua word that means “wild” or “invincible”, referring to the majestic mountain that dominates the landscape. 

In recent years, the Salkantay Trek has gained popularity among travelers who want to experience a different way to get to Machu Picchu. Unlike the classic Inca Trail, which is regulated by permits and guides and requires booking months in advance, the Salkantay Trek is open to anyone who dares to take it on. 

It is also rated as one of the 25 best treks in the world by National Geographic Adventure Magazine.

Starting the Trek

My adventure began at 4:30 am when I was picked up from my hostel in Cusco by a van from Machu Picchu Reservations, the operator I chose for this trek. I was joined by 9 other groggy-eyed hikers from different countries who shared in my excitement and curiosity. 

From the outskirts of Cusco, we drove for about three hours through the Sacred Valley until we reached Mollepata, a small town where we had breakfast and met our team of guides, porters and cooks.

After loading our backpacks and duffel bags onto a truck, we continued driving for another hour until we reached Challacancha, the trailhead of the Salkantay Trek. There, we received a final briefing from our guide about the itinerary, safety measures and expectations. We also got to see our first glimpse of Salkantay Mountain, towering over us with its snow-capped peak.

We started hiking around 9:30 am on a gentle uphill path that followed a stream. The scenery was breathtaking: green hills dotted with yellow flowers, blue skies with white clouds, and distant mountains with glaciers. We stopped for lunch at Soraypampa, a flat area surrounded by mountains where we had our first campsite. 

We capped off our lunch with a hike to Humantay Lake, a hidden gem nestled at the foot of a peak. It was well worth the effort: the lake dazzled with its turquoise hue and mirrored the mountain’s grandeur. It was also a great warm-up for the next day’s ultimate challenge: conquering the Salkantay Pass.

We went to bed early that night, as we had to wake up at 5 am the next day. I was exhausted from the distance, was nauseous from the altitude, and wanted nothing more than to pass out. I slept in a sleeping bag in an open-air hut with a broken window. My sleeping bag kept me warm despite the freezing temperature outside.

As I lay my head down, I looked up behind me through the broken window and into the expanse. Without any light pollution, I got my first good look at a clear, endless milky way.

The Effects of Mass Tourism

On day 2, as I hiked up the steep slope of Salkantay Pass at 15 000 feet above sea level, gasping for air and shivering in the cold wind, I wondered if I had made a mistake. Why did I choose this challenging trek over the more popular Inca Trail? What was I hoping to find at the end of this journey?

At the same time, I also noticed the locals who populated the villages along the route. The guides, porters, cooks, vendors, and horsemen that travel along the trek daily, providing services for local companies that in turn advertise to tourists looking for an 'authentic' experience, if such a thing even exists.

The Salkantay trek is not just a physical challenge. It’s also a cultural and environmental journey. It makes you aware of both the wonders and the problems of this region. It makes you question your role as a traveler and your impact as a visitor. 

As more and more tourists flock to these alternative routes to Machu Picchu, they bring with them both positive and negative impacts on the local communities and ecosystems.

On one hand, tourism provides economic opportunities for the people living along the Salkantay trek. Many locals work as guides, porters, cooks, or vendors, offering their services and products to the visitors. 

Done properly, tourism can help preserve their cultural heritage, such as their traditional clothing, music, dances, rituals, and beliefs. 

However, tourism also poses serious threats to their culture and environment. 

Visitors who disrespect sacred sites or customs for their own amusement and curiosity erode local cultural identity. Litter and damage to the natural resources that they depend on can ruin vital sources of income. As tourists from wealthier countries pour in, local prices can soar, which affects their access to even basic goods and services.

I wanted to learn more about these impacts and how I could minimize them during my time in the Andes. I talked to my guide, who was a local from Mollepata village. He told me his story: how he grew up in poverty but managed to get an education thanks to tourism; how he loved his job but also faced challenges such as low wages, long hours, harsh conditions; how he cared about his community but also worried about its future.

As we continued our trek, I couldn't help but reflect on my guide's story, and the stories of so many others like him. The Salkantay Trek, and places like it, serve as a microcosm of the struggle for balance between tourism and conservation. 

In Pursuit of Balance: Tourism and Conservation

That evening, we reached our second campsite at Chaullay, nestled in a cloud forest. The sudden change in scenery, from the stark and icy landscape of the Salkantay Pass to the lush greenery of the cloud forest, was a humbling reminder of the incredible biodiversity that exists within the Andean mountains.

We gathered around the dinner table, sharing stories from our day's journey and getting to know one another better. Our guide told us about the intricate balance of nature and the delicate ecosystem we were traversing. He spoke of the importance of sustainable tourism, ensuring the preservation of these landscapes for future generations to enjoy.

Earlier that day, he had invited us to join him for a special ceremony: a Pachamama Offering. 

Pachamama is the Quechua word for Mother Earth, and this ritual is a way of expressing gratitude and respect for her gifts. At the summit of the Salkantay pass, he prepared a small altar with coca leaves, flowers, seeds, and other natural elements. He explained that each item had a symbolic meaning and that we would offer them to Pachamama as a sign of our appreciation and harmony.

He then led us in a prayer, asking Pachamama to bless us with health, happiness, and protection. He invited us to take some coca leaves and place them on the altar, while saying our own personal wishes or intentions. 

I felt a sense of awe and connection as I participated in this ancient tradition, feeling the warmth of the fire and the energy of the earth. I thanked Pachamama for allowing me to witness her beauty and diversity, and asked her to guide me on my journey.

The ceremony ended with a group hug and a cheerful chant of “Pachamama kiwichisun!”, which roughly translates to: “May Pachamama live!”

One approach to mitigating the environmental impacts of tourism is through sustainable travel initiatives. These initiatives, often led by governments, NGOs, and local communities, focus on minimizing harm to the environment and promoting cultural understanding and preservation.

On the Salkantay, several local operators have adopted environmentally friendly practices such as using biodegradable products, recycling waste, and supporting reforestation projects. These efforts demonstrate that it is absolutely possible to balance the benefits of tourism with environmental stewardship.

Another key factor in this delicate balance is the careful management and regulation of tourist numbers. The Inca Trail's permit system is an example of how regulation can help limit the impact of mass tourism, and potentially save lives.  The Inca Trail is usually closed every February for maintenance and conservation. However, in 2010, the trail was closed for several months due to a mudslide that killed two people and damaged parts of the route. 

Such events show how fragile and precious sites like the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu are, and why they need to be protected and respected by both locals and visitors.

Similar systems could be implemented for other treks like the Salkantay, ensuring that the influx of visitors is managed in a way that does not put undue stress on the environment and local communities.

Community-based tourism is another potential solution to the challenges posed by mass tourism. By empowering local communities to take control of their own tourism development, they can make decisions that prioritize cultural preservation and sustainable practices. This can help ensure that tourism revenue is distributed more equitably among community members, and that the benefits are felt throughout the region.

The Tourism Economy: A Blessing and a Curse

On the third day, our path descended further into the cloud forest, winding through dense foliage and crossing crystal-clear streams. The air was filled with the sounds of trickling water and the calls of exotic birds. As we trekked through the subtropical jungle, we encountered coffee plantations and fruit trees laden with ripe avocados, oranges, and passion fruits.

Our guide shared stories of how these plantations have been cultivated by local families for generations, and how tourism has affected their way of life. He spoke of the benefits and pitfalls of the influx of visitors and its impact on their communities, such as improved infrastructure and job opportunities, but also the strain on resources and the environment.

As I reached the end of my trek and finally gazed upon the awe-inspiring ruins of Machu Picchu, I found myself with a renewed sense of responsibility. The Salkantay Trek had been a transformative journey, one that had allowed me to witness both the breathtaking beauty of Peru's nature and culture, and the challenges it faces due to mass tourism.

As travelers, it is our collective responsibility to engage in responsible, sustainable travel practices that minimize our impact and contribute to the preservation of these precious places. Only then can we ensure that future generations will have the opportunity to experience the wonder of the Salkantay Trek and other incredible destinations around the world.