The northernmost-living non-human primates that have learned to enjoy hot springs, developed complex social behavior and culture, and inspired generations of myths and folklore in Japan.
Photos by © Kevin Zhang - Getty Images
March 17th, 2023 | 5 min read
Nestled in a hidden valley in the forests of Nagano, Japan, there is a remarkable sight: dozens of monkeys with red faces and brown fur sitting in a steaming pool of water.
These are the Japanese macaques, also known as snow monkeys, and they are the only primates besides humans that have learned to enjoy hot springs. But these monkeys are more than just a tourist attraction. They are also an important species for conservation and cultural heritage.
A Macaque enjoying warm onsen waters - by © Kevin Zhang / Getty Images
The Japanese macaques are the northernmost-living non-human primates in the world, and they have adapted to various habitats and climates across Japan. They live in matrilineal societies where females stay in their natal groups for life while males move out before they reach sexual maturity.
They have complex social behavior and communication skills, such as grooming rituals, facial expressions, and vocalizations. They also exhibit cultural learning and innovation, such as washing food before eating it or using stones as tools.
However, these monkeys have historically faced many threats and challenges from humans and nature. Habitat loss due to deforestation and urbanization has reduced their range and food sources. Human-wildlife conflict has increased due to crop raiding and hunting. Disease transmission has become a serious issue due to sustained contact with domestic animals and tourists.
Conservation efforts have been implemented to protect these monkeys from extinction, such as creating sanctuaries, monitoring populations, educating locals and visitors, and enforcing laws. But there is a trade-off.
A 'Natural' Sanctuary
In one such sanctuary, surrounded by a small group of curious monkeys, I met a tourist who had traveled all the way from Australia. Harrison shared his excitement: He had always dreamed of seeing the snow monkeys in their natural habitat. "I've only ever seen these guys in photos and film." he said.
Seconds later he reached out his hand, holding a piece of apple, and one of the monkeys cautiously approached him. The monkey grabbed the apple with its fingers and quickly retreated to a nearby rock. It bit into the fruit and made a satisfied sound.
Like many others, Harrison had his phone camera ready to capture the moment himself. He was at Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, one of the world's most unique attractions in Nagano Prefecture. Here, a population of Japanese macaques can be observed soaking in the hot springs year-round. For better or for worse, they have become accustomed to human presence and often come down from the mountains to accept food from park staff (and visitors) and to soak in rich onsen waters.
The history Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park traces its roots back to 1950s, when human development in the mountains threatened the survival of the snow monkeys. Ski resorts destroyed their natural habitat and forced them to descend to lower regions, where they clashed with farmers over crops. Before long, they were being hunted.
Soga Hara, a local conservationist, saw this, and tried to protect the monkeys from harm. He found an ally in the owners of Korakukan, a nearby inn that lured the monkeys back to the valley with apples. Over time, the monkeys learned to stay away from human settlements and found a new home in the mountains of Jigokudani.
Today, the park is one of the most well-known in Nagano Prefecture, with its revenues helping to fund further conservation efforts.
“Some species of primates, including macaques, evolve to co-exist with humans. Traditional beliefs ensure the continuation of this relationship. At some point, tradition makes way for socio-economic concerns to arise. Human-monkey conflict was inevitable,” says Anindya Rana Sinha, a primatologist and Head of Academics at the National Institute of Advanced Studies in Bengaluru.
“Relocation ends up transferring the problem to someone else. When new troops of monkeys replace the displaced monkeys, they will conflict around the rehabilitation area and are more likely to spread diseases in new populations,” he continued.
Snow monkeys huddled together for warmth - by © Kevin Zhang / Getty Images
Overcoming Challenges
The Japanese macaques have inspired great legends and stories in Japanese history and mythology. They are seen as messengers of the gods and symbols of wisdom and fertility. They feature prominently in art, literature, religion, and folklore. One of the most famous examples is the three wise monkeys that embody the proverb "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil".
Despite their challenges and conflicts, the Japanese macaques have also shown remarkable resilience and adaptability. They have learned to exploit new food sources and habitats, such as hot springs, farms, and urban parks. They have also developed unique traditions and customs that vary across different groups and regions. For instance, some monkeys have been observed throwing snowballs at each other for fun or huddling together for warmth.
These behaviors have fascinated scientists and researchers who study their behavior and cognition. They have been subjects of long-term field studies that reveal their social structure, personality traits, learning abilities, and cultural transmission. They have also been involved in experiments that test their intelligence, memory, self-awareness, and morality.
The Japanese macaques are more than just animals; they are part of Japan's natural and cultural heritage. They reflect the diversity and complexity of life on Earth. They deserve respect and protection from those who share their land and resources. They are a source of wonder and inspiration for generations of those who observe them with curiosity and admiration.
Yet they are not the only ones. As humans continue to encroach on natural habitats, and as more species are driven out of their historical ranges, we find ourselves at a crossroads for species conservation: we can conserve them by commodifying them and putting them on display, like the Macaques of Jigokudani, or we can accept that material sacrifices need to be made to preserve their natural heritage; untouched and pristine. There is no right answer, but if we decide to do nothing, there will be more extinctions to come.
Kevin Zhang is a Cognitive Systems researcher from the University of British Columbia specializing in visual cognition and intelligent behavior. Passionate about how visual storytelling can solve problems and inspire conservation, he has travelled the world photographing the intersection of traditional livelihoods and wildlife.
Find him on Instagram, Photocrowd, and LinkedIn.